Town Guide: Chagford
One of the prettiest of the Dartmoor villages, Chagford's stone-walled cottages, whitewashed buildings and thatched roofs are set around a quintessential village square. It's a handsome, vibrant little village, with some great places to sleep and eat, and there are views over the tors practically everywhere you look.
CHAGFORD CAFES
The Birdcage, Chagford
The pretty little Bird Cage cafe on Chagford’s main square serves delicious lunches, as well as great breakfasts and brunches, made with fresh, local ingredients.
The Old Forge
Run by a fun, friendly husband-and-wife team, this small cafe makes a super spot for a light bite in Chagford, from spanish omelette and chicken-and-halloumi souvlaki to mini 'pizzaninis' and yummy homemade soups.
Whiddons Tea Room
In this old-world tearoom-bistro, traditional tastes rule, with menus full of venison, quail, duck and slow-cooked beef shin. It's all neatly and creatively done and the flavours are intense.
Folklore
East London meets Chagford. Exquisite salads.
Beachwood Bakery
California expat Julia Cotts started this jewel of a bakery with the help of funding from the local community. Try her renowned ‘Village Loaf’, an organic sourdough. Other favourites include spiced vegetable samosas, pastries, cakes, cinnamon buns, focaccias and freshly made soups. > Beachwood Bakery
CHAGFORD PUBS
Chagford Inn, Chagford
Under Head Chef, Russell Hamby, The Chagford Inn produces as much in-house as possible – ranging from baking their own bread to curing our own bacon, coppa, bresaola, salt beef, pastrami, fish and our version of Serrano ham. Their Dexter beef travels about half a mile from local farmer Richard ‘Elmo’ Ellis’s farm and is butchered and prepared totally in-house. Cuts and dishes change regularly … from rib eye steak through confit Dexter flank to roasted ox liver - no part of the animal is wasted. They don’t use stock cubes or anything ready prepared, and bones are roasted every morning to produce rich and delicious stocks. Menus change daily. At the time of writing, dishes included seared scallops with squid ink risotto, confit pork belly with puy lentil cassoulet and celeriac remoulade and, for dessert, plum and ginger crumble with ice cream or clotted cream. On Sunday lunchtime, they offer a traditional roast – always beef, occasionally, another roast meat – as well as a range of other dishes including vegetarian options. Dogs are welcome.
The Three Crowns
this part-thatched coaching inn in the pretty stannary town of Chagford dates back to the 15th century. Original fireplaces and granite walls are matched well with contemporary style; muddy boots (or paws) are welcome despite plush carpets. Vibrant dishes showcase ingredients that have been caught, reared or grown in the West Country, with fish from Newlyn, meat from Crediton, eggs from Chagford and vegetables from Topsham. There’s more fish on the à la carte menu than might be expected on Dartmoor, but that’s no bad thing. Starters include Cornish mackerel with heritage tomatoes and home-smoked squab pigeon. Seasonal mains include pan-roasted gurnard, beef fillet and spring lamb. The pub classics menu offers beer-battered market fish, butcher’s choice steak and bangers and mash. Sit by the inglenook fireplace to choose a tipple from Devon ales, ciders, wines, 21 gins and Luscombe and Frobisher’s soft drinks. Devon cream teas are available daily 12-5pm.
CHAGFORD SHOPS
Beachwood Bakery
California expat Julia Cotts started this jewel of a bakery with the help of funding from the local community. Try her renowned ‘Village Loaf’, an organic sourdough. Other favourites include spiced vegetable samosas, pastries, cakes, cinnamon buns, focaccias and freshly made soups. > Beachwood Bakery
Blacks Delicatessan
Walk into Blacks for one thing and you're likely to leave with half a dozen more. Tempting breads, cheeses and olives are stacked high, along with pies, pasties, and gourmet homemade quiches including leek and Stilton or spicy pepper with chorizo.
> More fabulous places to go food shopping in Devon
Jaded Palates
Not your ordinary wine shop: Ian Renwick, owner of Jaded Palates Wines, spent three years making wine in France, and now brings this knowledge and experience as he presents a fantastic range of wines and spirits... all with a story behind them.
Artisan
Artisan is a gallery selling the work of over 40 local artisans including unique jewellery, pottery, turned wood, forged iron feltwork, original artwork, prints and photographs.
Rue des Fontenelles
Founded in France, Rue des Fontenelles specialises in French antiques and interiors, stocking French and European antique art, decorative objects, accessories and ceramics in their gorgeous shop just off Chagford Square.
Bowdens
Bowdens is an Aladdin’s Cave of a shop, that seems to cram everything you’ll ever need into three floors. Come here for outdoor gear, including walking boots, maps and compasses.
BEST THINGS TO DO IN CHAGFORD
Walk along the River Teign
This walks leads to one of Dartmoor’s most famous walks, along the breathtaking River Teign. Park at Chagford Swimming Pool and pick up the footpath that traces the river, and makes a detour right up to the imposing bulk of Castle Drogo – the last castle to be built in England.
Chagford Swimming Pool
Just a ten-minute drive from North Bovey, Chagford Pool can't be far from heaven. Swallows nest in the changing rooms and dive-bomb the swimmers, and with the sound of the river Teign running past stepping stones, it's as relaxed as a swimming pool gets. It’s river fed, so is chilly.
Visit an artisan upholsterer
Follow the sounds of chamber music that waft around the backstreets of Chagford and you'll be led to the Georgian coachhouse where Stuart devotes himself to upholstering antique and modern furniture the traditional way. His is a wonderfully riotous workshop, where walls are hung with half-broken chairs, furniture springs and enormous rolls of webbing, and floors are scattered with off-cuts of damasks and fine silks, piles of lambswool and hessian bags overflowing with horse hair and shredded coconut husks. He welcomes drop-ins.
Make your own key fob
Leather worker Martin offers two-hour workshops from his shop, Artisan, on the high street. He has a hands-on approach to his craft, often visiting tanneries to select the perfect hides. He is pictured here sampling skins at J&FJ Baker & Co, the UK’s last remaining oak-bark tannery, in Colyton, East Devon. On Martin's workshop, you will learn basic leather skills and have the chance to produce your own bookmark or key fob. If you're fast, you might also get to make a leather bookcover.
Make your own silver ring
Working from a cosy studio in the centre of the ancient stannary town of Chagford, Miriam makes silver jewellery using designs inspired by the moors and wildlife that surrounds her. You can design your own silver ring with her with during a two-hour introductory session into silversmithing. You'll learn how to cut, file, solder, sand and polish your own ring, and finish it with different textures and patinas. Miriam is one of the few people in the UK to offer lovebirds the chance to design and make their own wedding rings. You can visit her shop by appointment. Visit Silver and Moor for information.
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